Project Used: Camoplast Track Install
With Some Much Needed Traction - Our Yamaha VMAX Was Transformed!
Jan. 01, 2004
Okay, Okay, we are finally getting around to changing the track on our Project Used Yamaha V-Max 700 XTC. We know that we have been saying that we were going to replace it for over a year, but we were held up by a certain track manufacturer that kept promising us a track that never showed up. So, after a year of waiting we turned to the folks at Camoplast. They were more than willing to help us out. Camoplast sent us their new 1" trail performance track that is very aggressive and perfect for the performance trail rider.. You'll hear more about the track itself in a later article.
This is a guide to changing a track. Remember that this is just the basics and this procedure was done on the Yamaha If you don't have a good understanding of the mechanics of the machine or your not sure about doing this find a friend that has done a track replacement. You can get yourself in a jam!! What we are telling you here is the basic procedure. Each make and model is different. You just need some basic hand tools, a warm and well-lit space, and time. This is a job that you will need a buddy for help. Here we go - remember that this is just a guideline and using a service manual for your sled is always best. If you doubt any of your abilities, let a dealer do the work.
- Get the sled off the
ground safely. A sled lift will work for now, we use the REC-LIFT stand, but
later you are going to have to get the rear of the sled up higher.
- Drain the chain case plug if you have one and drain the oil. Remove the cover the drain the oil if you dont have one. There is usually some kind of plug under the chain case in belly pan to get the oil out of the belly pan. A cut-off 2-liter soda bottle works well to catch the old oil.
- Remove the muffler from the sled.
- Replace the drain plug
now so you don't forget later.
- Loosen the track and
- (Yamaha Only) Loosen up
the bolts on the transfer rods not the bolts that mount the transfer rods to
the suspension rail. On a Yamaha, this will save you a lot of trouble when
you reinstall the suspension and will help you line up the rear suspension
- Remove the suspension
bolts on the tunnel. And remove the rear suspension. NOTE: It may be
necessary to remove the secondary clutch and the belt. On some models.
- Remove the speedometer
- Take the chain case
cover off. Be careful not to rip the gasket.
- Loosen the chain
tensioner. Loosen the locking nut slightly and back out the bolt itself.
This will give you a rough idea of where to start when you reinstall the
- Remove the bolt in
lower gear, then the gear and chain. There may be some spacers and shims so
be careful to note them.
- Remove the top gear nut
and then the gear.
- Remove the brake
caliper and parking brake if necessary.
- Remove the chain case
for the sled's tunnel.
- Now get the sled rear
end up as high as possible. A come-along works great. Remember to be safety
conscious because you are going to be under there.
- Remove set screws in
the drive shaft that hold the bearing in the speedometer housing in place.
- Remove the drive shaft.
Sometimes they are a very tight fit. Just keep at it and usually it will
come right out.
- Pull out the old track.
Here are a couple of notes:
A. If the track is in really bad shape, you can cut it with a sheet rock knife in the beginning and get it out of your way.
B. If the track is decent, save it. It is worth some money. It can be sold at a swap meet or place an ad in the local paper. There are always people looking for a good deal on a used track.
- Now it is time to
install the new track. Before installing any parts, inspect them closely for
any wear. If they are worn, this is the time to replace them. Also, I like
to use Blue Loctite to hold all the bolts securely in place. There is a lot
of vibration transferred throughout the sled.
- Place the drive shaft
inside the track. Tracks are directional. The arrow on the track must face
the direction of rotation.
- Put the drive shaft up
in place. This may be tricky with the weight of the track.
- Reassemble the
speedometer housing. If you have trouble getting the speedometer drive to
line up, take off the end of the cable at the speedometer and turn the inner
cable and it will fall right into place.
- Reinstall the secondary
- Reassemble the chain
case just like you took it apart.
- Check the chain
tension. Refer to the manual if necessary.
- Reinstall the cover and
- Fill with chain case
with oil designed for chain cases only. We use and like the Spectro
synthetic chain case oil.
- Place the brake caliper
and parking brake assemblies in place and tighten up.
- Re-install the muffler.
- Re-install the rear
suspension. Inspect it carefully before installation. Check all the bearings
and cross shafts and idler wheels at this point because it is so much easier
now with the rear suspension out. It is a good idea to adjust it if you need
to and grease it while it is out of the machine. This can be tricky and you
will really need someone to help you line it up.
- Set the rear suspension
in place and get the mounting bolts in place. No need to torque them down at
this point because it maybe a pain just to line up the suspension arms.
- Once everything is
lined up and in place go ahead and tighten all mounting bolts. You should
find out the torque specs and torque them to the correct spec.
- Tighten up the transfer
rods if equipped.
- Adjust the track
- Tighten the rear axle.
- Check everything over
to make sure you didn't miss anything.
- Reinstall the drive
- Run the sled on the
stand to check the alignment of the track.
- After riding the sled
for a while, check the track tension because it is going to stretch some. It
is also a good idea to get some miles on a new track before studding it.
Thirty-none steps! We broke everything down as mush as possible to make this as granular as possible, but its still a tough job. Just remember that this is a guideline. Every sled is different. Refer to a manual if necessary or your dealer. It is also a good idea to make notes as you go along. It is not a hard job but it is time consuming and a buddy's help is necessary for some of the heavier parts and aligning things.